Rachel Roddy’s recipe for penne all’arrabbiata | A Kitchen in Rome (2024)

Our white stove is spattered red, as is the sleeve of my dress. There are thin, red skins blocking the sink and caught up in the plug, like seaweed on a ship’s chain. I have also just touched my contact lens with the same fingers that crumbled chillies, and finished a big bottle of olive oil. In return, though, we have just eaten the most satisfying and fiery tomato sauce.

As much as I enjoy the tinned tomato sauces that see us through the winter and spring, there is nothing like fresh tomato sauce. One that shouts summer, even when the sky doesn’t; one that is bright, jammy and slick with olive oil.

Every pan is different from the last, even when you did exactly the same thing as last time with ostensibly identical ingredients.

What’s more, fresh tomato sauce brings out the best in us as cooks, appealing to our nurturing side, because we know that whether we are dealing with fruit just tugged from a fragrant vine, or less advantaged tomatoes, or any of the degrees in between, it is our responsibility to bring out the best in our sauce.

How to cook the perfect penne all’arrabbiataRead more

Tomatoes “require the cook to appreciate context”, wrote the American food writer and journalist Molly O’Neill in A Well-Seasoned Appetite, her book of words and recipes – a book that seems even more alive now that she has, sadly, gone. That line stuck in my head and reminded me of the most obvious, but often forgotten, thing to consider about tomatoes: their circumstances and conditions. How ripe are they? How taut or fleshy? Are they watery, sweet or acidic? Taste, think, then cook accordingly.

Good olive oil is always a good start for fresh tomato sauce – it is the foundation, so lay it well. Less flavourful tomatoes can be cooked in olive oil and garlic, skin on, then passed through a food mill to extract every bit of flavour. A handful of sweet cherry tomatoes, raw or roasted, or a squirt of concentrate, can enhance a kilo of disadvantaged ones. Garlic, peeled and lightly crushed, whispers its sunny fragrance, whereas sliced or diced it roars. Acidic tomatoes can be balanced with a spoonful of sugar (don’t believe anyone who tells you this is not a done thing in Italian sauces). Tomatoes that are already too sweet can be corrected with salt and a dot of vinegar, while wateriness can be cured by patience, and bubbled away.

Then there is the dimension of heat, which in Rome means the use of peperoncino, or red chilli, most often used in its dried form. It is nowhere more apparent than in arrabbiata sauce, which literally translates as “angry”, but physically translates as “fiery delight”.

The English word “context” comes from the Latin con (together) and texere (to weave). Could there be two better words to describe the coming together – the weaving – of tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, salt, heat and time into a sauce?

“Spaghetti o penne?” Silvano asks Alfio in the film Sette Chilli in Sette Giorni, as the two young doctors prepare a clandestine arrabbiata while their patients sleep in the diet clinic. “Penne – si chiama penne al arrabbiata” (“penne – it is called penne all’arrabbiata”) replies an exasperated Alfio, referring to the quill-shaped pasta that is the most familiar shape for this rich, Roman sauce.

It is also traditional to add a final swirl of olive oil and a handful of chopped parsley as you toss the sauce with the penne.

Penne all’arrabbiata - penne with spicy tomato sauce

Prep 20 min (if peeling tomatoes, 5 mins if not)
Cook 20 min
Serves 4

6 tbsp olive oil
2 garlic cloves
, peeled and crushed
700g fresh plum tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped (or tinned, without juice)
1-2 small, hot dried chillies, crumbled
Salt
400g-500g penne
1 heaped tbsp chopped parsley
Grated pecorino
, to serve (optional)

Put the olive oil and garlic in a frying pan. Put the pan over a medium-low heat and let the garlic sizzle gently for a few minutes – do not let it burn – then remove the garlic from the pan.

Add the tomatoes to the pan along with the crumbled chilli and a pinch of salt, and cook, covered, for 10 minutes.

Remove the lid, turn up the heat under the pan, and cook for another five minutes. By the end of cooking, the sauce should be thick and shiny with a slick of oil.

While the sauce is simmering, bring a large pan of water to a boil for the pasta. Add salt, stir, then add the pasta and cook until al dente.

Ideally, tip the sauce into a warm bowl, add the drained pasta, parsley and a bit more oil, toss, and then divide between bowls. Otherwise, mix everything in the saucepan and serve directly from there.

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for penne all’arrabbiata | A Kitchen in Rome (2024)

FAQs

What does all arrabbiata pasta mean? ›

Arrabbiata means "angry," and this classic pasta dish, originating in the Lazio region around Rome, gets its name from the spicy tomato sauce, made with garlic and red chile peppers.

Where is Penne all arrabbiata from? ›

Penne all'arrabbiata belongs to what is known as 'poor cuisine' which was exported by emigrants coming from the center of Italy. It originated from the Lazio region and is very easy to make.

What is all arrabbiata sauce made of? ›

Arrabbiata sauce, AKA sugo all'arrabbiata, is a traditional sauce made from San Marzano tomato paste, garlic, and dried red chili peppers, all cooked to perfection in extra virgin olive oil.

What is the literal translation of arrabbiata a type of pasta sauce? ›

The literal translation from Italian is “angry sauce,” and that name comes from the heat in the sauce from the red pepper flakes.

What pasta shape is arrabiata best in? ›

Penne is a great shape for medium to heavy sauces such as amatriciana (tomato, bacon and chilli), pasta bake, arrabbiata (tomato, chilli and basil), sausage and cream, and beef ragu.

What does arrabiata mean in Italian? ›

Arrabbiata literally means 'angry' in Italian; in Romanesco dialect the adjective arabbiato denotes a characteristic (in this case spiciness) pushed to excess.

How to make arrabiata sauce with Jamie Oliver? ›

DIRECTIONS: Heat about 5 tbsp of the oil in a large sauté pan over low heat. Add the chilies, garlic, and onion, and cook gently for around 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and let them cook until the sauce is quite thick, about 20 minutes.

Who invented penne arrabiata? ›

When in Rome Arrabiata is a light marinara or red sauce that originated in the Lazio region of Central Italy. The official origins of modern Arrabiata are obscure, but it appears to have been perfected in Rome in the 1920s by chef Antonio Cecchini, whose restaurant was appropriately called "Le Arrabbiate."

What herbs are in arrabiata? ›

Made up of dehydrated garlic, chilli, parsley and basil, our Arrabbiata mix is simple, yet delicious and versatile! A truly authentic flavour of Italy when combined with tomatoes or passata and olive oil, or still more simply, just the olive oil.

Which is better Alfredo or arrabiata? ›

What is the major difference between Alfredo and Arrabiata pasta? The alfredo pasta is made from cream, butter and cheese making it more creamy and less spicy. Arrabiata is made from hot garlic sauce, dried red chilies, herbs, tomatoes and garlic. It is spicy as compared to Alfredo pasta.

How much is Trader Joe's arrabiata pasta? ›

When given the choice between any other penne arrabbiata and Trader Joe's frozen penne arrabbiata, I prefer Trader Joe's frozen option every time. And for $2.99, my wallet isn't upset about the verdict!

What do Italians call sauce for spaghetti? ›

Here's the gist: the two ways Italians say “sauce” in Italian are salsa and/or sugo. Both words translate as “sauce” but never as “gravy.” Ragù doesn't even translate as “gravy” but comes close enough since it involves meat which is what people really mean when they say “gravy” (my personal opinion).

Why does arrabiata mean angry? ›

Arrabbiata literally means "angry" in Italian; the name of the sauce refers to the spiciness of the chili peppers.

What's the difference between arrabiata sauce and marinara sauce? ›

“Arrabbiata” (with two B's. It means “angry” because the spiciness will turn your face red as when you are angry) and it's made with tomato sauce, lots of chili peppers and parsley. But “Marinara” is a type of pizza and not an Italian pasta sauce.

What is the meaning of arrabbiata? ›

Arrabbiata literally means 'angry' in Italian; in Romanesco dialect the adjective arabbiato denotes a characteristic (in this case spiciness) pushed to excess.

What is the difference between arrabiata and marinara? ›

kick! The addition of chilis gives it a bit of a spice that. adds more interest and flavor to dishes like this one!

What does arrabbiata taste like? ›

If you're not familiar, arrabbiata sauce is basically marinara with red pepper flakes added for heat. If you like spicy food and you like a big plate of pasta drenched in nice, oily red sauce, arrabbiata is a revelation.

What is the difference between alfredo and arrabiata pasta? ›

What is the major difference between Alfredo and Arrabiata pasta? The alfredo pasta is made from cream, butter and cheese making it more creamy and less spicy. Arrabiata is made from hot garlic sauce, dried red chilies, herbs, tomatoes and garlic. It is spicy as compared to Alfredo pasta.

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